• EAT & DRINK

    Som Saa – Thai Spitaf’Hit

    Allusive name and exotic resonances, Som Saa sounds like a little thai caff serving simple food behind a sort of kitsch facade. But far be it, the Londoner Som Saa is the explosive spot of 2016.

    Som Saa amazes at the very firt glimpse: two immense rooms witness the startling contrast between a sombre wood and an abundance of luxuriant plants. Then rouses with a zestful welcome and its big swarming bar. The Cocktail Menu is short, the names evocative. The Ode to Ada adorned with a jade bettel leaf offers a clear-cut short drink : Pisco Bettel / Cocchi Americano / Laphroaig 10 years / Fernet Branca form this beverage where the smoked Irish Malt contrasts the Italian bitterness and exalts the sublime végé thai. But the deft balance doesn’t stop here. Also occurs with the buxom plates. This Hua Plee where the herbaceous banana flower coats a perfectly cooked fowl intensified by the nahm yum – pulp & grain chili paste and dried prawns. Or the classic but perfectly executed Som Thai Tam. Ended by this palm sugar ice cream, regressive, and its micro green bananas, just seared. Just like Som Saa, which seizes just as.

     

    Noemie Lafon

  • Eat

    Rosbeef a la Milanesa

    If Paris has its Giovanni, Michele and Denny, the UK capital city also counts its very own transalpine gems. Since several years, a London “tratonomie” has rised and is now exploding. Locavore, generous and modest, this cuisine is all about sharp dishes adroitly bringing together produces from the English terroir and vespatic traditions. To all the Doni so British.
    PADELLA – The quick Lunch

    Right behind the unmissable Borough Market – The London street food temple – where suited workers and strolling tourists enjoy some traditional Scottish Eggs, exotic Egyptian Kusharis or fried pork ears, Padella never empties. A minimalistic designed ground floor and underground, micro open-kitchen, where Pasta rules. Same vibe as its neighboring market, the menu is to the point and simple: 4 types of home-made pastas, 7 itemizations. Tagliatelle / smoked eel / heavy cream / Amalfi lemons debauches the too classic Carbonara. The saline cheers up the citrus, the aged dairy softens and the thick home-made pasta twists in. Tim Siadatan & Jordan Frieda replace the Pasta to the center. Awesomeness!

     

    6 Southwark St, Greater London SE1 1TQ

     

    RUBEDO – Sunday Comfort

    In North-East London, Stoke Newington and its village looks, a deep blue front window catches the eye. On the shop front, the spot clearly shows its love for Wine, for Nature. Opened just 8 months ago, Rubedo already counts its regulars. The menu is witness to of the Chefs’ Italian roots, a duo, Pascal and Henry (taught, amongst others, by James Lowe from Lyle’s). Largely showcasing the little producers they work with, carefully sourced. Home-made pasta with spelt flour directly picked into the Abbruzes, fevas and asparagus. The barley then arrives, served as a risotto, with fresh artichokes, wild hop flowers and 36 months aged parmigianno.  The sequel, soft and iodic with the cuttlefish directly cooked into the ink, Ratte potatoes and sorrel. The wine selection – all nature – is flawless, the cocktails are also made-to-measure – rare enough to outline – and turn out to be close to perfection. Just as the dessert and its textures, Yorkshire rhubarb and Eton Mess: a meringue / raw cream contrast, sugar and acidity. Damn good Rubedo!

     

    35 Stoke Newington church St., N16 0NX

    + 44 2072 540 364

     

    BROOKSBY’S WALK

    Brooksby’s Walk old public bathrooms have now become an offbeat spot with its covered rooftop and warm atmosphere. As a foretaste,  Jarrod Cooke’s unbeatable welcome paired with the well balanced cocktails: signature Negronis and Brooksby’s Boulevard (applejack Brandy / Maple / Vermouth / Campari). The grapefruit hollandaise & green asparagus – right in season – open the feast; closely followed by a Hereford beef tartare, mustard and spring onions; huge surprise with the to die for Pink fir potatoes, goat’s curd and seaweed. A spot-on land/sea pairing as an echo to the ever-present search for perfect balance in Giorgio Ravelli’s cuisine, highly Omnivore compatible (he was part of O’s happy family in Paris, London and Montreal). His Swiss-Italian roots unveil completely when he decides to end the dinner by one of his famous affogato “just as when I was a child, to finish the family dinners at the Pizzeria”.

     

    77 Brooksby’s Walk, Homerton, Hackney, E9 6DA

    + 44 7555 229 870

     

    N.L. & C.T.

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